Lissome, dynamic
and totally passionate about Israeli food and wine, American
born Phyllis Glazer is Israel’s premier culinary
ambassador. She made aliyah from New York in 1977. " I
was always a Zionist, but I fell in love with the country
(Israel) and never wanted to leave…this is my home."
she says.
Glazer’s enthusiastic research and expertise has made
her a respected authority on Israeli food. She is the only
American food journalist to write mainly in Hebrew and her
food column, Phyllis’s Kitchen, appears in the daily
newspaper Yediot Aharonot. She is the author of half a dozen
cookbooks and lectures in Israel and the United States, most
recently to standing room only audiences at a conference of
the International Association of Culinary Professionals held
in Minneapolis. A new book "The Essential Book of
Jewish Festival Cooking" written with her sister
Miriyam Glazer, is due to be published by HarperCollins in
March, 2004.
When I first met Glazer, more than 25 years ago, she was
teaching vegetarian classes in her Tel Aviv kitchen, pottery
vials of natural herbs and flavorings stacked on the open
shelves. But she laughs " I really came to Israel to do
theatre. I heard they were making movies for America, but
when I got here all the parts had been cast." Not one
to give up, she got a scholarship to improve her accent.
Without a trace of remorse she recalls "my teacher told
me there was no hope - I would jar the Israeli
sensibility." Today, she hosts a radio program where
traces of an Anglo-Saxon accent are not a turn-off, but
rather an attraction and she appears regularly on Israeli
television.
Glazer’s mother, Ida, who made aliyah three years ago,
lives in an adjoining garden apartment. "… my right
hand and best critic " jokes Phyllis adding "I
learned how to braid my hair by braiding the challah."
Ida’s crusty golden challahs, which she bakes weekly, are
sprinkled with a different herb on each braid. And her
constructive comments on the salad " it needs something
to perk it up – maybe a touch of cilantro, " are
valued by her daughter.
In the Tel Aviv garden, a score of aromatic herbs
flourish, ready for the picking to infuse Glazer’s dishes
with rich aromas. A keen promoter of Israel’s natural
ingredients she emphasizes "we have some of the best
olive oil in the world…and if people can use foods from
the land of origin, this gives meals especially at holidays,
an exciting new dimension." Fresh herbs, oils, and
produce such as vine ripened tomatoes, even in winter, are
available in supermarkets everywhere…an easy, tasty way to
help us boost Israel’s economy in these difficult times.
RECIPES
Georgian Chicken in Pomegranate and
Tamarind Sauce (meat)
serves 5-6
Phyllis Glazer and Nissan Balaban introduced us to this
tempting chicken dish at Nanuchka, the Georgian restaurant
in Tel Aviv. Pomegranate sauce and tamarind paste are
available in Middle Eastern grocery stores.
10 chicken thighs
2 cups (about 4 medium) diced onions
4 cups (about 4 medium) diced red onions
2 cups chopped cilantro
10 garlic cloves, sliced or pressed
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
1/2 teaspoon or to taste cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon black pepper
3 tablespoons tamarind paste
1/2 cup pomegranate sauce, diluted in 1/2 cup water
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 1/2 teaspoons salt or to taste
seeds of 1/2 pomegranate, to garnish (optional but
spectacular)
Remove skin from chicken thighs, rinse and pat dry. Set
aside.
In a large Dutch oven or pot with cover, mix the onions,
1 1/2 cups cilantro, garlic, and spices. Blend in the
tamarind paste, diluted pomegranate sauce, tomato paste and
salt to taste. Add the chicken and ladle the sauce on top.
Cover and cook on medium-high heat for 10 minutes. Lower the
heat and cook for a total of 1 hour and 20 minutes. Transfer
the chicken and sauce to a serving platter. Garnish with
remaining cilantro. Sprinkle the pomegranate seeds on top
and serve hot.
Approx. nutrients per serving: calories – 404 protein
– 28g carbohydrates – 18g
fat – 24g cholesterol – 132mg sodium – 513mg
Root Salad (pareve)
serves 6-8
Glazer notes "this takes kindly to variation such as
adding other roots like jicama or use your favorite
vinaigrette instead of oil and cider vinegar."
1 cup grated carrot
3 cups grated parsnip
1/2 cup minced celery
5 radishes, sliced
1 green bell pepper, cut into thin strips
1/3 cup sunflower seed oil or extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup cider vinegar
salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste.
In a large bowl, place the carrot, parsnips, celery,
radishes, bell pepper. Set aside. In a separate small bowl,
whisk together the oil and vinegar. Season to taste with
salt and pepper. Pour over vegetables and toss lightly.
Serve at room temperature.
approx. nutrients per serving: calories – 104 protein
– 0g carbohydrates – 3g
fat – 11g cholesterol – 0mg sodium – 5mg
Rich Carob Tea Cake (pareve)
serves 6-8
Glazer comments " this carob cake is so moist and
delicious most people would swear it’s a chocolate cake.
If desired chocolate may be substituted for the carob."
1 cup unsweetened carob chips
or 7 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped
1/2 cup hazelnut oil or canola oil
2/3 cup packed light brown sugar
3 eggs
1/2 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
pinch salt
2 tablespoons brandy
confectioners’ sugar
Preheat oven to 350F.
Cut out a circle of parchment paper to fit in the bottom
of an 8-inch round baking pan. Cutout a strip to line the
sides. Affix with a little oil.
Soften the carob chips or melt chocolate in the
microwave. Remove and stir in the oil. Cool slightly. In the
bowl of an electric mixer, beat the sugar and eggs until
foamy. Transfer the carob or chocolate mixture to mixing
bowl using a rubber spatula. Mix on low speed until blended.
Sift in the flour, baking powder and salt and beat lightly.
Stir in the brandy. Pour the batter into the prepared pan
and bake for 20-25 minutes in preheated oven or until a
toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Cake should
still be moist but not wet. Do not overbake.
Cool in pan, run a knife around the edges and turn out
onto a serving dish. Carefully remove parchment. Dust with
confectioners sugar.
approx. nutrients per serving: calories – 353 protein
– 6g carbohydrates – 36g
fat – 20g cholesterol – 80mg sodium – 184mg