Crisis Comfort

Since September 11, the day of unprecedented terror and loss of life on American soil, there’s a strong feeling that we should not deprive ourselves – in fact, the opposite is true. We want to pamper body and soul ...and diet foods be damned. According to news briefs, New Yorkers have cast aside the celery sticks and baby greens while sales of ice cream and chocolate are way up. There’s a craving for real food, the kind that we remember our grandmothers serving up. New York Times restaurant critic William Grimes writes of a "patriotic" menu trend ie. childhood foods which take on an almost irresistable appeal while Irena Chalmers, respected international food authority who lives in New York, notes that what we yearn for is the food of the safety of our childhood. For English born Ms. Chalmers, this means bubble and squeak (leftover potatoes fried with leftover cabbage) with lumpy gravy followed by a hefty dollop of treacle pudding and custard. These are the unpretentious dishes that makes us feel cozy, warm and safe.

Roll back the years to American classics. Take grilled cheese sandwiches. For the best, bread should be crisp and golden brown on the outside with warm, melting cheese oozing out. Road food maven Michael Stern insists on bright orange American cheese on packaged sliced Wonder bread but others like Ira Freehof of Manhattan’s Comfort Diner grills up rustic olive loaves to fill with goat cheese and roasted peppers. Old-fashioned macaroni and cheese, finished off to a golden crust under the broiler, is simplified by using packaged shredded cheese. In the 1950’s the quintessential supper dish was Tuna Noodle Casserole, crowned with crushed potato chips. To make it Oriental, adventurous foodies added a dash of soy sauce and canned sliced water chestnuts. Desserts used fresh seasonal produce in pies and cakes. Apple Brown Betty, a forgotten homespun favorite, is a delicious cross between apple pie and bread pudding.

Serve reasonably sized portions and enjoy without guilt. Wholesome, soul-satisfying dishes help connect memories of meaningful times and special people. They may take a little more time to make, but each dish is worth the wait creating warm, safe feelings.

Macaroni and Cheese (dairy)
serves 6

4 tablespoons butter or margarine
4 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups milk
2 1/2 cups shredded sharp cheddar cheese
1 tablespoon dijon-style mustard
8 ounces elbow macaroni, cooked and drained
salt and white pepper to taste
1 tomato, thinly sliced

Preheat oven to 375F. Spray a 2 quart casserole with non-stick vegetable spray.

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter or margarine. Blend in the flour until smooth. Whisk in the milk. Bring to boil, stirring constantly. Cook 1 1/2 minutes. Remove from heat and add 2 cups cheese and the mustard. Stir until cheese is thoroughly blended. Fold in the cooked macaroni. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Transfer to prepared casserole. Arrange tomato attractively on top. Sprinkle with remaining cheese. Bake in preheated oven for 20-25 minutes or until bubbly. If desired, finish off under a preheated broiler to brown. Serve with a green salad.

approx. nutrients per serving: calories – 474 protein – 20g carbohydrates – 38g

fat – 27g cholesterol – 81mg sodium – 402mg

Homemade Meat Loaf (meat)
serves 6-8

1 pound lean ground beef
1/2 pound ground turkey
1 3/4 cups soft pareve breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons finely chopped onion
1/2 cup vegetable juice (eg. V-8)
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon salt
scant 1/4 teaspoon pepper
about 1/3 cup steak sauce

Preheat oven to 350F. Spray a 9x5x3-inch loaf pan or a 2 1/2 quart baking dish with non-stick vegetable spray. In a large bowl, combine the beef, turkey, breadcrumbs, onion, vegetable juice, eggs, salt and pepper. Spoon into the prepared pan or baking dish and pat firmly. Spread the steak sauce over. Bake in preheated oven 1 hour or until juices run clear when a sharp knife is inserted in center. Cool 5-10 minutes before slicing. Serve with garlic mashed potatoes. Use any leftovers for next day sandwiches.

approx. nutrients per serving: calories – 211 protein – 20g carbohydrates – 10g

fat – 10g cholesterol – 96mg sodium – 666mg

Garlic Mashed Potatoes (pareve)
serves 6

2 1/2 pounds (about 8 medium) potatoes, peeled and cut in chunks
1/3 – 1/2 cup vegetable broth or cooking liquid saved from potatoes
5 tablespoons soft unsalted margarine
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
salt and white pepper to taste

Place potatoes in a saucepan. Pour enough boiling water over to cover. Cover and cook until knife slips out easily when inserted, 20-30 minutes. Drain in a colander. If not using vegetable broth, save 1/2 cup cooking liquid. In the same pan as potatoes have been cooked (no need to wash), melt 1 tablespoon margarine over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute. Add the drained potatoes and remaining margarine. Mash with a large fork or potato masher. If you prefer a smooth mixture, process in the food processor. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve hot.

approx. nutrients per serving: calories – 212 protein – 5g carbohydrates – 33g

fat – 9g cholesterol – 0mg sodium – 3mg

Tuna Noodle Casserole (dairy)
serves 4

1 (7 1/2 ounce) can chunk-style tuna fish, drained and flaked
1/2 can cream of mushroom soup
1/4 cup milk
6 medium mushrooms, thinly sliced
1 cup thinly sliced celery
1/4 cup thinly sliced scallions
1 1/4 cups chow mein noodles
1/2 cup coarsely crushed potato chips

Preheat oven to 350F. spray a 1 1/2 quart casserole with non-stick vegetable spray.

Mix together the tuna, mushroom soup, milk, celery, scallions, and chow mein noodles. Spoon into prepared casserole. Sprinkle potato chips on top. Bake in preheated oven for 35-45 minutes until bubbly and toasted on top. Serve hot with hot crusty rolls and sliced tomatoes.

approx. nutrients per serving: calories – 224 protein – 16g carbohydrates – 16g

fat – 11g cholesterol – 18mg sodium – 526mg

Chicken Pot Pie (meat)
serves 6

3 tablespoons vegetable margarine
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
salt and white pepper
1 1/2 cups chicken broth
4 cups diced cooked chicken
1 (10 ounce) frozen peas and carrots, defrosted
2 cups frozen baby onions, defrosted
2 tablespoons chopped parsley or 2 teaspoons dried
1 sheet (approx. 8 1/2 ounces) pareve puff pastry
1 egg, beaten

Preheat oven to 425F. Melt the margarine in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Blend in the flour, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Stir in the chicken broth. Cook, stirring constantly until mixture comes to a boil. Cook for 1 minute. Stir in the chicken, peas and carrots, onions and parsley. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to a 2-quart baking dish. Cool slightly. Cover with puff pastry, trimming to fit. Flute edges with fingers or crimp with a fork. Brush with beaten egg. Cut three 1-inch slits in top for steam to escape. Bake in preheated oven for 35-40 minutes until mixture is bubbly and pastry is golden brown. Serve hot.

approx. nutrients per serving: calories – 692 protein – 38mg carbohydrates – 69g

fat – 28g cholesterol – 101mg sodium – 391mg

Stove-top rice –raisin pudding (dairy)
serves 6

1/2 cup rice (not instant)
4 cups milk
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
pinch salt
1/3 cup dark raisins

In a double boiler, mix the rice, milk, sugar, cinnamon and salt. Cook over simmering water, covered, for 1 hour. Stir in the raisins. Continue cooking 30 minutes longer, partially covered, until thick and creamy. Serve warm or at room temperature.

approx. nutrients per serving: calories – 244 protein – 7g carbohydrates – 43g

fat – 6g cholesterol – 22mg sodium – 83mg

Olwen’s Apple Brown Betty (from 500 Treasured Country Recipes, Martha Storey and Friends, Storey Books, 2000) dairy
serves 8

3/4 cup brown sugar, packed
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
6 slices bread
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
3 tablespoons lemon juice
4 large apples, (Rome, Winesap or Cortland) peeled, cored and thinly sliced
1/4 cup apple juice

Preheat oven to 350F. Grease a 2 quart baking dish.. In a large bowl, mix the sugar and spices. Crumble in the slices of bread. Mix in the butter and lemon juice. Cover the bottom of the baking dish with about one-third crumb mixture.. Add half the apples, half the remaining crumbs, rest of the apples and crumbs. Pour apple juice over the top. Cover with foil and bake in preheated oven for 30 minutes. Remove cover and bake 20 minutes longer. Serve warm

To make pareve, use pareve bread and vegetable margarine in place of butter.

approx. nutrients per serving: calories – 305 protein – 2g carbohydrates – 47g

fat – 13g cholesterol – 31mg sodium – 111mg

Hot Chocolate (dairy)
serves 2

1/2 cup semi sweet chocolate chips
2 cups milk
1/4 cup water
pinch ground cinnamon
sugar to taste
2 cinnamon sticks

In a small saucepan mix the chocolate chips, milk, water and cinnamon. Stir over low heat until chocolate is completely melted and mixture is smooth. Bring to simmer. Add sugar to taste. Pour into mugs and insert a cinnamon stick in each.

approx. nutrients per serving: calories – 351 protein – 10 g carbohydrates – 38g