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From Our Jewish Cooking Expert

Ethel G. Hofman has more than 20 years of experience in the kosher food and wine industry. She is a past president of the International Association of Culinary Professionals and is food editor of the Baltimore Jewish Times and Philadelphia Jewish Exponent.  She can be reached for consulting at: www.kosherfoodconsultants.com
 
You can get Her cookbook:   Everyday Cooking for the Jewish Home through amazon.com and bookstores.  Her other cookbook:  Making Food Beautiful is available directly from her.  Email her at:  ethelhof@aol.com
 
Ethel has kindly allowed us to reprint her articles and warmly invites you to use the recipes for your own personal use.  Please note, any other reprint or use of her articles and recipes is not permitted. Thank you.

 

For Israel Independence Day - Foods with Meaning

The Glazer women, Miriyam, Phyllis and Ida, all love food. "It’s in our genes," laughs American born Phyllis Glazer, now living in Tel Aviv and one of Israel’s most popular food personalities.

But their culinary interests go far beyond today’s Jewish cooking. In The Essential Book of Jewish Festival Cooking, 200 Seasonal Holiday Recipes and their Traditions, by Phyllis Glazer with Miriyam Glazer, HarperCollins 2004, hardcover $29.95, the two sisters explore the agricultural customs and biblical holiday cooking of our ancestors. With fascinating in-depth essays, ancient rituals, and fresh contemporary recipes, this is one book I couldn’t put down. No matter what your religion, it is destined to become a landmark of Jewish cuisine.

Co-author Dr. Miriyam Glazer is a Professor of Literature at the University of Judaism in Los Angeles. She is also studying for the Conservative rabbinate. Spending a year in Israel offered the sisters a unique opportunity to work together on what they describe as "a spiritual, soulful and exciting journey into our roots." Phyllis adds "living in Israel and seeing the changing seasons had given me a unique perspective." Their mother, Ida Glazer, lives in a neat little garden apartment just down the path from Phyllis’s front door. "She’s my right hand," says Phyllis. "Not only does she do all the testing, but she gives us , and often improves on, the Ashkenazi classic recipes we grew up with."

"Why is this Jewish cookbook different?" I asked.. Catching her between publicity appearances, Phyllis explained "Long before timepieces and the Internet, our ancestors looked for agricultural signs to mark the passing of the seasons and the time for holiday rejoicing…then, as it is today in Israel, green garlic meant that Passover was near; the new barley and wheat harvests signaled the time for the Omer and then Shavuot; the firm little yellow Barhi date was the sign of the approaching Days of Awe and olive oil was plentiful at Hanukkah. In our research, we found little-known and often surprising facts about the origins of each holiday and the profound link to the signs of nature and the produce of the earth in each season. This is what makes our book unique."

Indeed The Essential Book of Jewish Festival Cooking contains much more than the 200 recipes We learn that after the destruction of the Second Temple by the Romans in 70A.D. the Jews were forced into exile far from the familiar signs and rhythms of nature. The holidays would have been erased forever, the book explains, if not for dedicated rabbis who in later eras, collected the laws and holiday traditions giving new expression in custom and prayer. But it was the Jewish housewives who developed holiday dishes influenced by the foods in the Diaspora where they had settled.

Phyllis is firm in her belief that only natural and unprocessed foods be used. " I try to avoid commercial stocks, artificial ingredients and those that involve cruelty to animals – such as fois gras and milk-fed veal." Instead, recipes are enhanced with fresh herbs, spices and other natural ingredients. Flour is unbleached, sugar is unrefined. Most of the ingredients called for are available in every supermarket. Some, such as zahtar and sumac may be found in health food stores.

For Israel Independence Day, Phyllis will be back in Tel Aviv with her mother, two teenage daughters and three plump pets. "Of course, like everybody else, we’ll celebrate with a barbecue. There will be fireworks but we’ll eat at home." She jokes about her first Independence day in Israel. "We went to the local park….I felt that I’d been taken back to ancient times. The park was filled with smoke from hundreds of barbecues…everybody looked as though they were sacrificing something – be it hot dogs or steak – not the Paschal Lamb"

.Israel Independence Day celebrations for the Glazers will be in Phyllis’s lush, green yard, her herb garden perfuming the air. Dishes served to a host of family and friends may include Grilled Cornish Hens in Lemon and Hot Pepper Sauce served on Toasted Pita Bread, the recipe contributed by chef Hanoch Bar Shalom. There will be half a dozen salads including Baked Potato and Sprout Salad with Fresh Parsley Dressing and Shirazi Salad (plenteous fresh herbs and vegetables), and for dessert, Zucchini Tea Cake with Cinnamon and Nutmeg. The essences of Israel infusing each dish.

To enrich and add more meaning to Jewish holidays Phyllis suggests using ingredients from the same soil that nourished our ancestors. These might include Israeli cold-pressed extra virgin oil, olives, goat cheeses and wines. And you’ll be giving a much needed boost to the Israeli economy.

The recipes below are from The Essential Book of Jewish Festival Cooking by Phyllis Glazer with Miriyam Glazer, published by HarperCollins, 2004 hardcover $29.95

 

Grilled Cornish Hens in Lemon and Hot Pepper Sauce (meat)
serves 6 - 8

3 Cornish hens (about 1 1/2 pounds each)
salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste
2 medium mildly hot or hot green peppers like Anaheim or poblano
8 garlic cloves, minced
1 cup fresh squeezed lemon juice
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 bunches arugula
1 large round pita bread or focaccia

1. Rinse the hens and pat dry. To reduce the fat the Glazers like to dip the hens in boiling water and scrape the skin with a knife to remove excess surface fat. Cut each hen into 4 pieces and season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

2. Slice each hot pepper in half lengthwise and remove the seeds and ribs if a milder taste is preferred. Cut into small dice and mix with the garlic, lemon juice and olive oil. Let stand at room temperature while the grill heats.

3. Rinse arugula well to remove grit and cut off the roots.

4. Over medium-high coals, grill the Cornish hen pieces for 6 minutes on each side, or until done. Do not overcook or hen will dry out and burn.

5. Remove the hen pieces and warm the pita or focaccia on the grill. Place the pita or focaccia on a large serving platter and scatter the arugula on top. Lay the hen pieces on the arugula. Pour the sauce over and serve.

Approx. nutrients per serving: calories – 422 protein – 23g carbohydrates – 11g

fat – 32g cholesterol – 127mg sodium – 162mg

 

Baked Potato and Sprout Salad with Fresh Parsley Dressing (pareve)
serves 6

1 1/2 pounds new or red thin-skinned potatoes
oil
salt fresh ground black pepper
2 cups fresh bean sprouts
1 cup sliced fresh mushrooms

Dressing: 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
6 tablespoons fresh squeezed lemon juice
1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
1-2 tablespoons finely chopped onion

1. Preheat oven to 350F.Scrub potatoes, but do not peel. Rub with oil, season with salt and pepper and pierce in several places with the tines of a fork. Bake in the oven for about 1 hour until tender. Cool slightly, cut into large chunks and transfer to a salad bowl. Add the sprouts and mushrooms.

2. In a small bowl, whisk together the ingredients for the dressing. Season with salt and pepper and pour over the warm potatoes. Stir gently and serve.

approx. nutrients per serving: calories – 279 protein – 3g carbohydrates – 24

fat – 20g cholesterol – 0mg sodium – 42mg

 

Shirazi Salad (pareve)
serves 6-8

1 cup fresh parsley
1 cup fresh mint
1/2 cup fresh tarragon
1 cup fresh dill
1/2 cup fresh basil
3 English (long, hothouse) cucumbers
4 beefsteak tomatoes or 12 to 16 small Roma tomatoes
1 medium onion

Dressing:1/2 cup fresh squeezed lime or lemon juice
1/4 to 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 1/2 teaspoons fresh ground black pepper
2 teaspoons salt or to taste
1/2 teaspoon sugar
2 garlic cloves, minced (optional)

1. Wash the five herbs well, remove the stems and chop. Place in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

2. Wash, peel and seed the cucumbers. Cut in very small dice (the smaller the dice the tastier the salad will be). Wash and seed the tomatoes and cut in very small dice. Dice the onion very small. Place cucumbers, tomatoes and onions in a separate bowl, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

3. An hour before serving, make the dressing. Combine lime juice, olive oil, pepper and salt.

4. Remove the bowl of cucumbers, tomatoes, and onions from the refrigerator and drain off all the liquid that has accumulated. Add the chopped herbs and the dressing and mix well. Return to refrigerator until just before serving, to allow time to marinate. Check seasoning. Add minced garlic if desired.

approx. nutrients per serving: calories – 97 protein – 2g carbohydrates – 8g

fat – 7g cholesterol – 0mg sodium – 597mg

 

Zucchini Tea Cake with Cinnamon and Nutmeg (pareve)
serves 16-20

4 medium zucchini (to yield 3 cups grated zucchini)
1 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 1/2 cups whole-wheat pastry flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 cup vegetable oil
2 eggs
1 cup packed dark brown sugar
1 cup packed light brown sugar or granulated sugar
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 cup chopped walnuts
confectioner’s sugar for dusting

1. Prehat oven to 350F. Grease and flour a 16 by 5 by 4-inch loaf pan, knocking out excess flour.

2. Grate zucchini coarsely. Put in a strainer placed over a bowl and press with the back of a wooden spoon to remove excess moisture. Let stand 10 minutes. Sift the flours, soda and spices together.

3. In the bowl of an electric mixer or food processor, blend the oil, eggs, sugars and vanilla. Add the flour mixture and blend well. Mix in the grated zucchini and nuts and pour into prepared pan.

4. Bake for 45 to 55 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Let cool slightly and sprinkle the top with a light dustins of confectioners’ sugar. Slice and serve warm, at room temperature or toasted.

Note: makes 24 cup cakes. Line two 12-cup muffin pans with paper baking liners. Bake 18-25 minutes or until a toothpick inserted comes out clean.

approx. nutrients per serving: calories – 327 protein – 5g carbohydrates – 41g

fat – 17g cholesterol – 24mg sodium – 89mg


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