Towboat Dining

He calls it "towboat dining." As we glide up the Mighty Mississippi heading for Memphis, Eric St. Onge, head chef on the riverbarge River Explorer, explains. " Rivermen need to keep up their strength. They eat three meals a day; a hearty breakfast, lunch is called dinner – and dinner usually a bit lighter, is called supper."

The food on this hotel barge is in keeping with the informality. From the compact galley kitchen, St. Onge and his staff, serve up homestyle meals, unpretentious but always delicious. Many recipes are traditional. St. Onge notes " they might be dishes that we grew up with like the beef and rice meat loaf and fresh peach cobbler. Or we put a new twist on traditional dishes such as tilapia with capers and sun-dried tomatoes." Food is abundant, 24 hours a day. Peckish guests may raid a well-stocked fridge or grab a couple cookies from the perpetual cookie jar, kept stocked with fresh baked chocolate chip, oatmeal and raisin, and ginger cookies. Love a cup of coffee? Pour fresh brewed java or capuccino or herbal tea at one of the locations set up throughout the galley (dining room) and the spacious guest lounges.

St. Onge, 30, a New Orleans native, has been head chef on the R/B River Explorer for 3 years describing it as "the best job I’ve ever had." His family owned a diner. "I’ve always loved being in the kitchen," he says. "whenever I needed extra money I worked in restaurants, starting as a bus boy, then tossing burgers and steaks." He quit college and went on to cook at restaurants on shore where he learned good cooking "on the job." Guests wake up to the aroma of fresh brewed coffee then start the day with a buffet style, Great Country Breakfast. There’s an egg and omelet station, efficiently manned by a young Frenchman, Michael Blancho, an enormous variety of toast, muffins and sweet rolls, a dozen fresh fruits, hot and cold cereals, scrambled eggs and sausages. Buffet-style lunches always include a chef’s specialty station, such as duck breast in fruit sauce and roast beef or turkey, carved to order. Eric has his own unique version of roast turkey. A turkey breast, dipped in seasoned flour to cover, is deep fat fried at 300F for about 1 hour. The result is a crisp crunchy crust encasing moist, succulent meat yielding some of the best roast turkey I’ve ever eaten. The a la carte supper, served by a young, highly efficient staff, offers a regional delicacy, "the Blueplate Special" such as blackened red fish, as we pass the rivertowns of Natchez and Vicksburg. A vegetarian dish, maybe Vegetable Lasagna, is served at dinner and supper and the choice of old-fashioned desserts may include a fresh fruit cobbler or apples slow baked with cinnamon, butter and brown sugar. Convenience items such as biscuit mixes are used which St. Onge insists "saves time without giving up taste." Menus change daily. Travellers requiring special diets can meet with St. Onge to plan their meals. For the 140 or so travellers, the mood is casual and easy. You might sit with a retired attorney from California at one meal, the next day with a teacher from New York who needs to get away from it all. There’s no rush. Days are timeless and it’s OK to be lazy.

"Eddie" Connor, owner of the R/B (riverbarge) River Explorer was born on a rice and sugar plantation in the Bayou country. While operating his own fleet of tow boats, he identified a niche ie. to offer an unhurried Mark Twain river experience through a 19^th century world while in the comfort of 21^st century accommodation Connor is quick to emphasize "we are not a cruise ship… our entire philosophy is different. Come as you are, be comfortable, no need to dress up for dinner. We have an outward focus… the exploration of America’s waterways." Connor travels the rivers to find communities willing to host "landings". They come on board entertaining with their own brand of jazz, blues and comedy.

Read, play cards or just watch the sun set from the sky deck while cruising so close to the cottonwood and sycamore tree lined banks it seems you can reach out and touch the branches. This 730 foot floating hotel is peace, tranquillity; a uniquely relaxing experience far away from the daily grind of work and worries.

Internet address: www.riverbarge.com

Below are some recipes from the R/B River Explorer galley.

Blackened Redfish (dairy)
serves 4

spice mixture: 1 teaspoon each paprika, black pepper, salt
1/2 teaspoon each cayenne, garlic powder, onion powder, oregano, white pepper and thyme
4 redfish fillets (about 6 ounces each)
4 teaspoons butter, melted *
* for pareve, use vegetable margarine

In a shallow dish, combine all spices and herbs. Heat a large cast iron skillet over medium-high heat until very hot (about 7-10 minutes). The skillet is the correct temperature if a drop of water evaporates almost immediately when dropped on the surface.

Coat the fillets with the spice mixture, shaking off the excess. Cook the fish in the preheated skillet for 2-3 minutes, or until the underside is dark brown. Carefully spoon about 1/2 teaspoon melted butter or margarine over each fillet (try to avoid spilling the butter or margarine into the pan as it may flare up). Using a spatula, turn the fish and spoon 1/2 teaspoon more melted butter or margarine over the blackened sides of the fillets. Cook for 2-3 minutes longer or until the underside is dark brown and the fish is opaque and moist inside.

approx. nutrients per serving: calories – 189 protein – 32g carbohydrates – 0g

fat – 6g cholesterol – 92mg sodium – 720mg

Balsamic Vinegar Dressing (pareve)
makes about 2 1/2 cups

one of the choice of dressings served daily with fresh baby greens
1/2 teaspoon each oregano, thyme, dill, mustard, granulated garlic, white pepper
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil
1 1/2 teaspoons onion powder
1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
1/2 cup honey
1 1/2 cups vegetable oil

Place all ingredients except oil in the blender. Blend at High for 1 minutes. With motor running gradually add the oil. Let stand for 1/2 hour. Chill before serving.

approx. nutrients per tablespoon: calories – 106 protein – 0g

carbohydrates – 4g fat – 10g cholesterol – 0mg sodium – 0mg

Pan Seared Duck Breast with Fresh Fruit Compote (meat)
4 servings

4 boneless duck breasts
1 Granny Smith apple, cored and diced
1 navel orange, seeded and diced (reserve juice)
5 large strawberries, diced
1/2 cup fresh blackberries
1/2 cup fresh raspberries
juice of 1 small lemon
1/3 cup merlot wine
salt and pepper to taste
mint sprigs to garnish (optional)

Score the duck breast skin and sear on a very hot skillet, skin side down. Cook until all the skin is caramel brown and crispy. Drain off almost all the fat. Set aside. Mix all the fruit in a bowl. Pour the reserved orange juice and merlot wine over. Let stand for 1 hour. Place duck breasts on a sheet pan. Cover with foil. Bake for 10 – 15 minutes in preheated 375F. oven. Slice duck breasts on the bias. Place one on each plate separating slices to fan out. Spoon the fruit mixture over. Garnish with a sprig of mint (optional).

approx. nutrients per serving: calories – 326 protein – 37g

carbohydrates – 13g fat – 12g cholesterol – 153mg sodium – 150mg

Peach Cobbler (dairy)
serves 6

4 cups sliced fresh or frozen peaches
1 teaspoon cinnamon
3/4 cup sugar
2 teaspoons honey, warmed
2 1/2 cups biscuit mix (eg. Bisquick)
about 1 1/2 cups low fat milk
cinnamon sugar to sprinkle (optional)

Preheat oven to 375F. Spray a 2 1/2 quart baking dish with non-stick cooking spray.

In a bowl, toss the peaches with cinnamon, sugar and honey. Spoon into the prepared baking dish. Set aside.

In a separate bowl, combine the biscuit mix with enough milk to make a soft batter. Spoon over the peaches, spreading to edges of dish. Sprinkle with cinnamon sugar (optional). Bake in preheated oven for 1 hour or until nicely browned and a toothpick comes out clean when inserted. Serve warm.

approx. nutrients per serving: calories – 380 protein – 11g

carbohydrates – 81g fat – 2g cholesterol – 4mg sodium – 366mg

Miss Nari Carrot Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting (dairy)
makes 12 servings

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 eggs
1 cup sugar
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon allspice
10 ounce package shredded carrots
cream cheese frosting (recipe below)

Preheat oven to 350F. Spray a 9-inch square baking pan. with non-stick cooking spray. In a large bowl, combine the oil, eggs and sugar. Add the

flour, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, allspice and mix well. Stir in the carrots. Pour into prepared baking pan. Bake in preheated oven for 50 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool completely before frosting.

Cream Cheese Frosting: Whip together 4 ounces softened cream cheese, 2 tablespoons softened butter and 3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract. Beat until light and fluffy. Gradually sift in 2 cups confectioners sugar beating well. Add 1-2 tablespoons milk or just enough to make a spreading consistency.

Spread over cooled cake roughing up with a fork

approx. nutrients per slice: calories - 349 protein – 3g carbohydrates – 46g