"Keepin’ Cakes" for Chanukah

For my mother, Chanukah was more than latkes, those crisp potato pancakes which in our house, were devoured within seconds of being transferred from skillet to platter. It was her Chanukah cakes, rich, buttery and fruit –filled that upheld her reputation as a generous hostess and superb baker. At our island home , back in time when doors were never locked, friends and neighbors would drop in unannounced, during the eight day Festival of Lights. Then they were welcomed with a pot of tea, kept warm under a padded tea cosy (cover) and a tempting variety of "keepin’" cakes, thinly sliced and arranged on white lacy d’oyleys on a silver three-tiered cakestand. .

Jean Greenwald, my mother, had been raised in an Orthodox Jewish community in Glasgow. Though she spent more than 60 years living in the remote Shetland isles, north of Scotland, she continued the warm Scottish-Jewish custom of baking special dairy cakes for Chanukah. Lesser known than eating foods fried in oil, the eating of all sorts of dairy dishes is traditional in honor of Judith, the brave Jewish heroine who fed enormous quantities of cheese to the enemy general, then plied him with wine to quench his thirst. Naturally, he fell into a deep sleep and was beheaded by Judith. Without their leader, the enemy fled and Judith’s town was saved. Her bravery is said to have inspired Judah Maccabee and his followers to clean and re-dedicate the sacred Temple in the second century, BCE. The "keepin’cake" custom may also have been influenced by the extensive make ahead baking Scots do in preparation of Hogmanay (the riotous Scottish New Year’s Eve celebration). I can still smell the spicy sweet aromas wafting from the warm kitchen when I came home from school on cold winter days. Half a dozen cakes including the standard Glazed Cherry Loaf, Caraway Seed Cake, Coconut Cake and Whisky Fruit Cake, rested on wire racks with several more in the oven. When completely cool, the cakes were lovingly wrapped and stored in airtight containers, then stacked on a high shelf in the chilly porch. These were "keepin’ cakes", not to be touched, far less tasted before the first Chanukah candle was lit. (Precious refrigeration space was never used for such frivolous items.)

Lacking the convenience of plastic wrap and foil, each cake was wrapped tightly in wax paper, sealed with adhesive tape and for good measure, tied with fine string. In Scotland, pungent caraway seeds are a popular flavoring for cakes. When the dense, spicy fruit cake, was still warm, Jean insisted that "the top be pricked with a steel knitting needle and drip in some good whisky or sherry…don’t skimp." Wrapped tightly and stored in a cool, dry place, this whisky steeped cake could be stored for a month or more. When cut (use a serrated knife) it is tipsy moist and irresistible.

Although this "keepin’ cake" custom originated many years ago, the bake and store ahead method fits in admirably well with our frantic schedules. In fact, these cakes, rich in butter, should be stored 5-7 days before serving. To ensure that the cakes stay moist and airtight, I recommend using plastic wrap rather than wax paper and string, or wrap in wax paper, then tightly with aluminum foil. Don’t store in a warm kitchen. Instead, all of these cakes may be frozen, and removed from freezer two hours before serving.

Happy Chanukah with a taste of Scotland!

Recipes

Glace Cherry Loaf (dairy)
serves 10-12

Quick tips: Cut cherries into quarters with kitchen scissors. Non-stick cooking spray with flour, perfect for baked items, is now available in supermarkets.

1/2 cup glace cherries, quartered
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 3/4 sticks (7 ounces) butter, softened
1/2 cup sugar
1 teaspoon almond extract
3 eggs
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon allspice or nutmeg

Preheat oven to 325F. Line the bottom of a medium size loaf pan (8 1/2 x 4 1/2 x 2 1/2 inch with wax paper. Spray bottom and sides of pan with non-stick cooking spray with flour. Toss the cherries with 1 tablespoon of the flour. Set aside.

In a medium bowl, beat the butter, sugar and almond extract until pale and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, along with about 1/4 cup of the flour. Mix well. Add the baking powder, allspice or nutmeg and the remaining flour, gradually, mixing well to blend. Using a wooden spoon, fold in the cherries. Transfer mixture to prepared loaf pan, smoothing the top with a spoon. Bake in preheated oven for 1 hour or until risen, golden and a toothpick comes out clean when inserted in center.

Coconut Cake (dairy)
serves 10-12

1 1/2 sticks (6 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
3 large eggs
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 1/4 teaspoons baking powder
pinch ground nutmeg
1 cup finely shredded coconut

Preheat oven to 350F. Spray an 8-inch cake pan or an 8-inch square baking dish with nonstick cooking spray with flour

Cut the butter into pieces. In a medium bowl, beat the butter and sugar until pale and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, along with one tablespoon of the flour to prevent curdling. Add the vanilla and beat to combine. Fold in the remaining flour, baking powder, nutmeg and coconut. Transfer to prepared cake tin or baking dish. Bake in preheated oven for 1 hour or until a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes before removing from pan to cool completely. Cut in thin wedges or squares to serve.

Caraway Seed Cake (dairy)
serves 10-12

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks)unsalted butter, softened
3/4 cup sugar
3 eggs
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon frozen orange juice concentrate, thawed
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
2 tablespoons caraway seeds

Preheat oven to 350F. Spray a round 1 1/2 quart ovenproof souffle dish or 9x5x3-inch loaf pan with non-stick cooking spray with flour. In a medium bowl, cream butter and sugar until pale and fluffy. Beat in eggs, one at a time, with a little flour to prevent curdling. Add the orange juice and mix well. Add remaining flour and baking powder, about 1/4 cup at a time, mixing well after each addition. Stir in the caraway seeds. Turn into prepared cake pan smoothing top with a spoon. Bake in preheated oven 45 to 55 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool slightly. Loosen edges with a round bladed knife before turning onto a wire rack to cool completely.

Whisky Fruit Cake topped with Toasted Marzipan (dairy)
serves 25 or more

ground almonds and diced candied orange peel are available in markets.

1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter, softened
3/4 cup sugar
4 eggs
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/4 teaspoons baking powder
2 tablespoons finely ground almonds
2 teaspoons fresh ground pepper
1 cup currants
1 cup raisins
1 cup chopped walnuts
10-12 dried apricots, sliced thin
1/2 cup candied orange peel, diced
3-4 tablespoons whisky or as desired.
Optional topping: 2 tablespoons apricot jam, melted
10 ounces prepared marzipan, softened

Preheat oven to 325F. Line bottom of a 9-inch springform pan with wax paper. Spray bottom and sides with non-stick cooking spray with flour.

Cream softened butter and sugar in a large bowl until pale and fluffy. Add eggs, one at time, with a little of the flour to prevent curdling, beating well between each addition.

Stir the baking powder into remaining flour and add gradually, about 1/4 cup at a time, mixing well. Stir in the ground almonds, ground pepper, currants, raisins, walnuts, apricots and orange peel. Mixture will be stiff and sticky.

Transfer mixture to prepared baking pan, smoothing top with a spoon. Bake in preheated oven for 1 1/4 hours or until a toothpick comes out clean when inserted in center. Cool slightly before removing from pan.

While still warm, prick the cake all over the top with a metal skewer. Use a teaspoon to pour in the whisky. Allow to soak in thoroughly.

For optional topping: Turn cake upside down so that the top is flat. Brush top and sides with melted jam. Set aside. Roll the marzipan on a lightly sugared board in a circle large enough to cover the top of the cake. Place on cake, pressing lightly. Don’t worry if some of the marzipan hangs down onto the sides of the cake. Mark the marzipan with a metal skewer in a diamond pattern. Place under a preheated broiler just until beginning to brown. Watch carefully, this takes only seconds. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and aluminum foil.