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Over the
Sea to Skye
The isle of Skye is steeped
in history and romance. Located off the northwest coast of
Scotland, the landscape is dominated by the jagged towering
Cuillin Hills. At early morning, a gauzy mist drapes the
mountain tops and in summertime, the contrast when you cross
the short bridge from the mainland of Scotland, is
breathtaking… a tranquil land of wooded glens carpeted
with wild flowers, mountain passes and rushing waterfalls.
This is the island where in
1746 the young Flora MacDonald helped Bonnie Prince Charlie,
disguised as a servant girl, to escape from the English
after the brutal battle of Culloden, and sail "over the
sea to Skye." It’s a place where kilts are proudly
worn, the skirl of bagpipes is heard of an evening and
Gaelic is not only spoken but encouraged. Skye is the only
place in the United Kingdom where a College of Celtic
Studies is dedicated to keeping the tradition alive. A far
cry from over two centuries ago when Highlanders were banned
from speaking Gaelic and Highland dress was prohibited in an
attempt to Anglicise the population.
You might think that fine
dining would be impossible to find. Not true. Tucked away in
the remote northwest of the island we found the Three
Chimneys Restaurant owned by Shirley and Eddie Spear, a
jolly couple dedicated to serving the finest food and wine.
Originally a crofter’s cottage, the restaurant has won
numerous awards including voted 28th in
Restaurant Magazine’s "definitive list" of the
world’s top 50 restaurants. Eddie presides, warmly
greeting every guest, even latecomers (as we were). He is an
acknowledged wine "maven", and keeps one of the
finest wine cellars in the Highlands. This includes a
sterling selection of malt whisky which guests can sample in
the cozy bar.
Shirley admits to being a
self-taught chef. Her passion for cooking Scottish food and
her skill in preparing Skye’s abundant supply of seafood,
Highland lamb, beef and game, has earned her a glowing
worldwide reputation. Local growers supply Shirley with top
quality vegetables, herbs, fruits, picked daily as well as
cheeses, milk and cream.
She is fearless in her use
of berries and greens such as the ground elder which she
says" grows wild in every island garden.", and
adds a zest and glamour to salads and garnishes. The Hot
Marmalade Pudding, is a signature dish, so popular it’s
served year round. Prepare the ingredients ahead so
last-minute mixing is simple. The dark, rich, spongy pudding
served with Drambuie Custard is sensational. The custard may
also be made ahead and brought to room temperature to serve.
Donnie MacInnon, our host,
advised us to dine at the Cuillin Hills Hotel in Portree,
Skye’s capital. An excellent choice. Originally a hunting
lodge for Lord MacDonald, the sun streams through a wall of
windows so that diners can look out onto the small boat
harbor, pink and blue cottages snuggled into the shoreline.
The menu is excellent home cooking with a refinement which
reflects local seafood and produce. Cullen Skink, which may
sound unappetizing but simply means an "essence"
from the Cullen area. is a pale, silky soup, flecked with
chunks of smoked fish, green herbs and finished off with a
splash of cream. If you can’t find smoked haddock (Finnan
haddie), use filleted chubs or smoked trout or bluefish but
cut down on the cooking time after the fish is added. Deep
Fried Haddock in a Beer Batter, arrived still sizzling from
the skillet, and for an irresistible appetizer, we were
served fresh salmon cured in rock salt and steeped in
Talisker whisky, Drambuie and molasses.
I’d be amiss not to
mention Duck’s at Le Marche Noir on Ayr Square in
Edinburgh where we dined before leaving Scotland. (yes,
there is a Malcolm K. Duck) Dapper and a true gourmand, he
firmly believes that "wine is an essential part of
dining" Duck’s wine list includes the best wines from
all over the world. Mr. Duck is usually on hand every
evening to stop by each table, checking as he chats, to see
that every dish sent out is perfect. The menu, described as
modern Scottish food, changes each day depending on what is
fresh and available. Peach and mint soup with watermelon
sorbet and polenta crusted halibut fillet on marinated
fennel, along with a truffle scented mash with red onion
confit, show the combined creativity of management and chef.
You can check into the
websites as follows:
Three Chimneys - threechimneys.co.uk
Ducks at Le Marche Noir – ducks.co.uk
RECIPES
 Cullen Skink
(dairy)
serves 4
1 tablespoon plus 2
teaspoons butter, divided
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
1 large baking potato, peeled and diced
1/2 pound smoked haddock, cut in bite size pieces
2-2 1/2 cups milk
1 bay leaf
1/2 cup light cream
2 rounded teaspoons all-purpose flour
salt and pepper to taste
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
Melt 1 tablespoon butter in
a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and potato.
Saute until potato is almost soft, about 10 minutes.
Add the haddock, 2 cups
milk and bay leaf. Cover and simmer 10 minutes or until fish
flakes easily. Remove from heat and discard the bay leaf. In
a cup, blend the remaining 2 teaspoons butter and flour.
Whisking constantly, drop tiny pieces of the butter mixture
into the milk mixture. Return to medium heat and bring to
boil, stirring constantly. Cook for 1 minute. Remove from
heat. Add the cream, salt and pepper to taste. If too thick,
add a little more milk. Heat through. Do not boil. Stir in
parsley before serving.
approx. nutrients per
serving: calories – 281 protein – 19g carbohydrates –
17g
fat – 15g cholesterol –
68mg sodium – 652mg
Winter
Salad
with Quail Eggs (dairy)
serves 4
8 quail eggs *
1 (6 ounce) bag baby spinach leaves
1 cup shredded red cabbage
1/2 medium red onion, chopped finely
1 rib celery, cut in thin strips, about 1-inch long
3-4 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, coarsely grated
1/4 cup oil and vinegar dressing or as desired
1 tablespoon pine nuts
* available in farmers
markets
Poach the quail eggs: half
fill a shallow pan with simmering water over low heat. . Add
1 tablespoon white vinegar. Using a thin knife, gently break
the quail eggs, one at a time, into a cup. Carefully lower
the cup into the simmering water, allowing some of the water
to cover and firm up the egg. before sliding into the water.
Cook for about 2 minutes or until the white is firm. Lift
the eggs out with a slotted spoon and set on paper towels.
In a large bowl, toss
together the spinach, cabbage, onion, celery, cheese and
dressing. Divide onto 4 salad bowls or plates. Top each
serving with 2 quail eggs and garnish with pine nuts.
approx. nutrients per
serving: calories – 154 protein – 8g carbohydrates –
3g
fat – 12g cholesterol –
102mg sodium – 285mg
Three
Chimneys Hot Marmalade Pudding (dairy)
serves 6-8
3 1/4 cups fine soft brown
breadcrumbs
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon packed brown sugar
1 rounded tablespoon self-raising white or brown flour
1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, cut in 8 pieces
1 (12 ounce) jar coarse cut orange marmalade
3 large eggs, whisked till frothy
1 rounded teaspoon baking soda
Spray a 6 cup heatproof
bowl with non-stick cooking spray and set aside.
Place breadcrumbs, sugar
and flour in a large mixing bowl and stir to mix. In a
separate small bowl, melt the butter with the marmalade in a
saucepan over low heat or place the butter and marmalade in
a bowl and microwave at High for 1 1/2 – 2 minutes or
until warm and melted. Stir to combine.
Pour the melted butter
mixture over the dry ingredients. Mix well.
Add the eggs and beat
gently into the mixture until blended.
Last of all dissolve the
baking soda in 1 tablespoon cold water. Stir into the
pudding mixture which will increase in volume as it absorbs
the baking soda. Spoon into prepared bowl. Spray a piece of
wax paper with non-stick cooking spray and place over the
bowl, then cover with heavy aluminum foil, tightly tucked in
around the edges of bowl so that no steam escapes.
Place bowl in a saucepan of
boiling water. The water should reach halfway up the sides
of the bowl. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and simmer for 2
hours.
The water will need topping
up during the cooking period. Use boiling water only.
To serve: Let stand 5
minutes at room temperature. Loosen sides with a
round-bladed spatula and turn out onto a serving dish. Slice
and serve hot with fresh cream, ice-cream or as they do at
Three Chimneys – with Drambuie Custard (recipe follows)
approx. nutrients per
serving: calories – 391 protein – 7g carbohydrates –
63g
fat – 15g cholesterol –
111mg sodium – 493mg
Three
Chimneys Drambuie Custard (dairy)
makes about 1 1/4 cups
1/2 cup milk (not skim or
low fat)
1/2 cup heavy cream
3 egg yolks
3 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon Drambuie liqueur or brandy
Rinse a small heavy
saucepan with cold water. Do not dry (prevents sticking).
Pour in the milk and cream and bring to simmer over low
heat. Set aside. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks and
sugar until pale and creamy. Pour the milk mixture over the
egg yolk mixture whisking all the time. Return to the
saucepan and heat over medium heat, stirring constantly,
until thickened, 4-5 minutes. Do not boil. Mixture should
coat the back of a spoon. Remove from heat. Stir in the
Drambuie liqueur or brandy.
Cool slightly before
pouring into a heatproof pitcher or bowl. Serve warm or at
room temperature.
approx. nutrients per
tablespoon: calories – 33 protein – 1g carbohydrates –
2g
fat – 2g cholesterol –
37mg sodium
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